What saddle height is and how to measure it
Saddle height is usually measured in a straight line from the centre of the bottom bracket (the crank axle) to the top of the saddle, along the line of the seat tube. It is one of the adjustments that tends to have the biggest effect on comfort and pedalling efficiency, which is why bike fitters usually start here.
To measure your current height:
- Find the middle of the saddle from front to back and mark it.
- Place the end of a tape measure at that point on top of the saddle.
- Run the tape in a straight line, along the seat tube, down to the centre of the bottom bracket.
- Write the number down in millimetres (for example, 764 mm).
Record this number before changing anything. If a new setting does not work, you can go back to your starting point.
Method 1: The heel method
The heel method is quick and good for a starting point, especially for casual riders.
- Wear the shoes you normally ride in and lean against a wall or sit on the bike on a trainer.
- Turn the cranks so that one pedal is at its lowest point.
- Place your heel on that pedal.
- Your leg should be nearly or fully straight, and your hips should stay level without rocking.
If your knee is clearly bent, the saddle may be low. If you have to tilt your hips or stretch to reach the pedal, it may be too high. Adjust in small steps of about 5 to 10 mm. When you put the ball of your foot on the pedal for normal riding, you will have a small bend in your knee at the bottom of the stroke, which is what you want.
Method 2: Inseam formulas
Two commonly quoted formulas use your inseam length.
- LeMond method: inseam x 0.883 gives the distance from the bottom bracket centre to the top of the saddle.
- 109% method (Hamley and Thomas): inseam x 1.09 gives the distance from the pedal axle (at its lowest point) to the top of the saddle.
To measure your inseam, stand barefoot with your back against a wall and feet slightly apart. Hold a hardcover book firmly up between your legs, mark the top of the book on the wall, then measure from the mark to the floor.
Worked example: An inseam of 85 cm gives 85 x 0.883, which is about 75 cm from the centre of the bottom bracket to the saddle top. Using the same inseam, the 109% method gives about 92.7 cm from the pedal axle to the saddle, measured with the pedal at the bottom.
These are starting points only. Shoe thickness, crank length, flexibility and riding style all affect the ideal number.
Method 3: Knee angle check
For a more precise check, have someone film or photograph you pedalling, ideally on a trainer or while holding a wall for support. Look at the knee when the pedal is near the bottom of the stroke (closer to five o’clock than six).
A knee bend of roughly 25 to 35 degrees is often quoted as a good range, though sources vary slightly. If the knee is close to straight, the saddle is probably high. If the bend is much greater, the saddle may be low. Use this as a guide and combine it with how the bike feels.
Signs your saddle is too high or too low
Possibly too high
- Hips rocking from side to side while you pedal
- Reaching or stretching with your toes at the bottom of the stroke
- Pain at the back of the knee
- Chafing or discomfort at the back of the saddle (see preventing saddle chafing and sores)
Possibly too low
- Pain at the front of the knee
- Quads that tire very quickly
- A feeling of being cramped or “squatting” on each pedal stroke
Pain can have other causes, so if it persists after careful adjustment, a professional bike fit is a sensible next step.
Should your feet touch the ground?
Not flat-footed, in most cases. On a bike set for efficient pedalling, you will often only reach the ground with your toes or the ball of one foot when you slide forward off the saddle. That is normal.
Comfort and commuter bikes sometimes use a lower saddle so riders can put more of the foot down at stops. This is a trade-off: a lower saddle makes starting and stopping feel more secure but can reduce pedalling comfort and put more load on the knees over longer rides. If you are anxious about stopping, try a slightly lower position or practise sliding forward off the saddle at stops.
Fine-tuning and marking your height
- Move the saddle in small steps and ride briefly after each change.
- Keep a multi-tool with you for adjustments on short test rides.
- Mark your seatpost with tape or a paint pen once you find a good height, and note the measurement so you can reproduce it after servicing or on another bike.
- Re-check when you change shoes, pedals or cranks.
- Remember that fore-aft position and tilt also matter. See bike saddle sizes and finding your fit for how saddle shape affects how it feels.
Frequently asked questions
What height should your saddle be on a bike?
There is no single number. Use the heel method, an inseam formula or a knee-angle check to find a starting point, then fine-tune based on comfort.
What happens if your saddle height is too high?
You may rock your hips, overextend your leg, and feel pain behind the knee or in the lower back. It can also contribute to saddle discomfort.
What seat height is good for 5’5”?
Height alone is not enough; leg length varies a lot between riders of the same height. Measure your inseam and use a formula as a starting point. Someone with an 80 cm inseam, for example, would get a LeMond figure of about 70.6 cm.
How high should the saddle be according to the LeMond method?
Multiply your inseam by 0.883 and measure that distance from the bottom bracket centre to the top of the saddle.